Walls in some of the buildings surrounding the University are fully covered with this medieval form of graffiti called Vitor. Meaning victory, and dating as far back as the 14th century, they celebrate a student's graduation with a Doctorate. Traditionally painted using bull's blood (now with a less-controversial, less-charming synthetic pigment) it's interesting to see all the different variations on the same theme.

I enjoy riding my bike alongside the river, or sitting barefoot on the grass with a good read. Views include (within 100 meters) a Roman bridge, a Gothic-Baroque cathedral and a Modernist house with a mind-blowing stained-glass façade. A walk at night (with all these buildings illuminated) is mesmerizing, and in summertime it is also possible to rent a little boat and navigate the river.

This medieval vault (attributed to Fernando Gallego) is one of my favorite places in the city to think. Set in a dark chamber, with only this piece on display and soft classical music playing on the background, colors seems to start changing every minute you spend there. By the time you leave the room, you will feel like you just returned from a different era.

In a city with such a big presence of historical landmarks, the fact that the contemporary museum is housed in the former city jail seems rather ironic—a lounge bar is also quite fittingly located on the jail's patio. Conserving most of the old elements from its former use, the space is always worth visiting, even if it's only to interact with this wonderful permanent installation by Mona Hatoum. The piece, located in room 4, repurposes the cell's doors to form a revolving door without exit.

These two small mountain villages make for the perfect city escape in either summer or winter. I like to wander around the narrow, cobbled streets, cosy up in one of the many restaurants and cafés and look at the local craftsmen work in their shops. Not far away there's a mountain topped with a monastery—a great place to enjoy of a good dose of fresh air and serenity. Amazing views of the area don't hurt either.