The oldest still-operating restaurant in New York City, still in the family of the original founders. At Christmastime, it’s decorated to the nines. Go with a big group: portions are large and the wine flows liberally. Look for the little buttons on the walls: in the old days, the mafia would hang out in the back room, and if diners saw the cops come in, they’d press the buttons so the mafia guys could run out the back.